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Feral
Cats Trapping a Feral Cat Taming a Feral Cat or Kitten Kitten Care Advice on fostering feral cat and kittens Building a drop trap Feral Cat Feeding Stations and Shelters |
Some of this information was provided by Feral Cat Coalition and Alley Cat Allies
Feral Cats - Few people set out to become feral cat caregivers. Most often they come across feral cats by accident and follow their instinct to help. The first impulse is to feed the cats. Alley Cat Allies (ACA) advocates feeding because food and water are necessary for survival. Not feeding the cats and hoping they will “go away” is not realistic. They can’t go away, and they may starve, but they will continue to reproduce. However you became involved with feral cats, your best course of action is to start feeding and, as soon as possible, begin a Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR) program to trap, vet, and sterilize all members of the colony. Getting feral cats to a veterinarian for spaying or neutering and a general health evaluation is the single most important thing a caregiver can do for them. This is how a caregiver turns a feral cat colony into a managed colony, whose members can live safe, healthy, sterile lives without the dangers and hardship of constant breeding.
Background - TNR evolved from nonlethal control programs practiced for decades in the United Kingdom, other parts of Europe, and Africa. In the United States, TNR is practiced by thousands of individuals and hundreds of groups, with the help of sympathetic veterinarians. TNR is endorsed by numerous institutions and organizations, including the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA), Best Friends Animal Society, Cat Fancier’s Association, Cornell and Tufts Universities’ Schools of Veterinary Medicine, Doris Day Animal League, the Humane Society of the United States, San Francisco SPCA, and SPAY/USA. In a growing number of communities, TNR programs are receiving official sanction and funding. The ACA factsheet “Where Does TNR Work?” lists dozens of publicly, privately, and jointly funded programs in the United States, but it cannot include them all because individuals like you start new TNR programs every day. The information needed to implement TNR may not be available to you locally, but it is easily found on the internet at www.alleycat.org or obtained by mail from Alley Cat Allies. You can rapidly learn how to manage one or more colonies of feral cats using ACA’s newsletters, factsheets, videos, and website. ACA may be able to refer you to a Feral Friend, a volunteer in your area who can help you get started. With guidance, you can overcome almost any obstacle to implementing a humane management plan.
Before You Begin - A strong determination to trap and sterilize is often a caregiver’s greatest asset because, although the TNR process is straightforward, it can be intimidating the first time. The idea of “trapping” conjures images of cats being hurt or traumatized, and no longer trusting the caregivers. This does not happen. Since ACA was founded in 1990, hundreds of thousands of feral cats have been humanely trapped, vetted, and returned to their familiar surroundings where, after a brief adjustment, they resumed their daily routine and good relationship with their caregivers. But their lives were vastly improved by this intervention. Before you trap and sterilize the colony or colonies you care for, take time to learn exactly what TNR entails. The most basic steps are in the name:
1] Trap means to humanely trap every feral cat in the colony
or colonies you care for.
2] Neuter means to take the cats in their traps to a veterinarian or veterinary
clinic that works with feral cats to be spayed or neutered, evaluated, vaccinated,
and treated as needed.
3] Return means to care for the cats through recovery from surgery, then take
them back to their established homes. The unnamed fourth step in TNR is to provide
the cats with long-term care and feeding; in other words, to continue what you
are already doing. There are other factors that you will hear about or encounter
while practicing TNR. Familiarizing yourself with these issues now will put
you way ahead of most beginning caregivers.
Safety - Feral cats, like all wild animals, will strike out when frightened and unable to run away (as they are in a trap). You must learn correct safety procedures such as always labeling traps and never sticking your hand into a trap. Make sure that everyone else involved learns them as well. People who regularly work with wild animals may get preexposure rabies vaccinations. If you follow established safety precautions, you will never get close enough for a feral cat to bite you; therefore you would not need a pre-exposure rabies vaccination. You should, however, be aware that the vaccination is available and decide for yourself if you should get it.
Stress Reduction - Learn how tension, loud noises, extremes of heat and cold, and exposure can affect the entire TNR process. Maintaining a calm, comfortable environment for the cats will reduce their stress and speed their recovery from trapping and surgery. Careful planning and a realistic timetable will enhance the process for trappers as well. The Alley Cats Allies factsheet “Dos and Don’ts of Stress Reduction (for Cats and for Trappers)” offers practical pointers to increase your trapping success.
Taming Feral Cats - You may hear from people who want to tame feral cats and place them in homes. This is not realistic. There are tens of millions of feral cats in North America. Shelters and animal control facilities kill more cats than any other species each year. Although many kittens and stray adult cats can be socialized and adopted into homes, it is impossible to home the feral cat population as a whole. Attempts to tame adult feral cats divert time and energy from the most important objective: sterilizing the feral cat population to end overpopulation.
Relocation - The great majority of feral cat colonies should be returned after sterilization to their established locations, where you found them. The alternative, relocation, is a difficult, time-consuming, and problematic procedure. It is not necessary or recommended except under extreme circumstances. Alley Cat Allies’ factsheet “Relocation: Guidelines for Safe Relocation of Feral Cats” explains why relocation is rarely the step to take and also explains what is involved in safely relocating feral cats. Do not attempt a relocation without reading this information.
Getting Started - To begin implementing TNR, determine
what cats you want to sterilize and line up the resources to do it. The steps
are:
1] Count how many cats are in the colony or colonies you plan to TNR. Start
keeping records on the cats now.
2] Locate and learn how to use the equipment needed to humanely trap.
3] Establish a relationship with a veterinarian or a veterinary clinic that will work with feral cats.
4] Ask friends, neighbors, or other cat advocates to help. Determine how you (and others) will care for the cats before and after surgery, and on an ongoing basis.
5] Review Alley Cat Allies’ “Humane Trapping Instructions” factsheet for specific steps for safe and successful trapping.
6] Trap, neuter, and return the cats.
Trapping Equipment - The list of equipment either needed or recommended for trapping is lengthy, but be assured, you already have most of it at home: e.g., thick gloves, antibacterial hand wipes, and several cans of tuna or wet cat food. The most important equipment, however, you probably don’t have at home: one or more humane box traps. Ideally, you would have one trap for each cat, although this is not always feasible. Traps are available from several sources. There may be a Feral Friend in your area who lends traps and even assists in trapping. Some large TNR programs have established “trap depots,” where you can borrow traps. You may be able to borrow traps from a humane society or animal facility, but if you do this, you could be required to return the trap AND the cat, who will most likely be killed. Always determine a humane society or animal facility’s policy toward feral cats before borrowing their traps. If you cannot borrow traps, you will have to purchase one or more. One benefit of owning your own trap(s) is greater flexibility in planning your trapping schedule. Humane box traps can be used for many years, so you can trap well into the future or lend your equipment to other caregivers who are just starting out.
Working with a Veterinarian - It is essential to find a veterinarian or a veterinary clinic that is familiar with or willing to learn how to treat feral cats. This must be done before trapping begins. Start with your own veterinarian by explaining what you want to accomplish for the cats and for the benefit of your community. If your vet does not want to treat feral cats, contact every veterinarian and veterinary clinic in your area. Ask other people who want to help the cats if they know of a cooperative clinic. You can find a list of feral cat organizations in your area at www.alleycat.org/orgs.html. Explain TNR to each veterinarian you contact, emphasizing that sterilization is essential to the process. If a veterinarian is interested but has no experience with feral cats, provide him or her with one or both of ACA’s training videos and suggest the information about treating feral cats available at www.alleycat.org/resources.vets.html. When you find a veterinarian or veterinary clinic willing to treat feral cats, establish a protocol to ensure that everyone involved understands what to expect and that you get all the services the cats need. Most clinics see patients by appointment. With feral cats, appointments cannot always be kept. The clinic must be flexible. Find out how many cats the clinic can accommodate on a single day. This information will guide your trapping activity. Establish a protocol ahead of time for euthanasia of very ill cats, aborting pregnant females, and testing for FIV/FeLV. If a veterinarian insists on procedures you do not want, refer him or her to information on feral cats at www.alleycat.org. Each cat will require a spay or neuter procedure (using anesthesia that can be administered while the cat is in the trap) and eartipping, and such other general or specific treatment as each cat requires: e.g., ear cleaning, vaccination, and flea treatment. Figure out the cost of veterinary care for a male and a female cat, so that you can estimate a budget for the whole colony. Spay surgery is more expensive than neutering. The gender ratio of a typical colony is 60 females to 40 males. Some veterinarians will offer discounts because you are providing a community service. If they do not offer, always ask. If the cost of sterilizing the colony is too great, ask for financial help from neighbors and businesses where the colony resides. They may be happy to contribute because you are taking action from which they will benefit. Arrange a warm, quiet environment in which the cats, in their traps, can recover from surgery. Your only involvement at that point will be to monitor their recovery and prepare to return them. Cats cannot regulate body temperature under anesthesia, so see that they do not get cold. This is especially important for kittens.
Get Help from Others - Working with other caregivers and sharing equipment, resources, and moral support make the work go easier and faster. Recruit anyone you know who wants to help the cats - friends, neighbors, or a Feral Friend. Plan to trap as many cats as possible at one time. Feral cats are smart - if you trap repeatedly in the same location, they soon become trap wary. But always keep in mind, the number of cats you can trap at one time is determined by how many cats your veterinary clinic can sterilize in one day.
In Conclusion - With a well-organized plan, a TNR program can be implemented with ease. If trapping initially feels awkward, be assured that it will soon become a skill you perform readily, perfecting your technique with each experience. By then you will be ready to demonstrate trapping to others. Every time you assist in sterilizing a colony, you will have the satisfaction of knowing you have helped more feral cats live safe, healthy lives without reproducing.
Feral Cats
Trapping a Feral Cat
Taming a Feral Cat or Kitten
Kitten Care
Advice on fostering feral cat
and kittens from an advoCATS member
Building a drop trap
Feral Cat Feeding Stations
and Shelters
Trapping a Feral Cat
Preparation for trapping
If possible, get the cats used to being fed at the same place and time of day.
You might try leaving the trap unset and covered with a large towel during routine
feeding so that the animal will get used to seeing and smelling it in the area.
Don’t feed the cats the day/night before you are going to trap so the cats
will be hungry. Be sure to notify others who may feed the cats not to leave
food out either.
Plan to trap so that you don’t have to keep the cat too long before surgery. Trapping the night before is usually the best approach. Cats should not eat 12 hours prior to surgery.
Prepare the area where you will be holding the cats before and after the clinic. A garage or other sheltered, warm, protected area is best. Lay down newspapers to catch the inevitable stool, urine and food residue. You may want to use pieces of wood to elevate the traps off the newspapers. This allows the mess to fall through the wire away from the cats. Spraying the area ahead of time with a cat-safe flea spray (like Adams or Ovitrol) will discourage ants.
Prepare the vehicle you will use to transport them as well. Plastic may be an additional precaution. But remember that you will need to use newspapers or some other absorbent material in addition. ( Urine will roll right off of the plastic and that isn’t what you want )
Plan your day of trapping carefully. Remember that if you trap an animal and release it for some reason, it is unlikely that you will be able to catch it again….they learn very quickly.
If there are young kittens involved, remember that they should not be weaned from the mother before 4-6 weeks of age. If you are trapping a lactating female, you may want to wait until you have located the kittens and they are old enough to wean. If you wish to tame and foster the kittens to adopt out, they should be taken from the mother at 4-6 weeks. If you wait until the kittens are older than 4-6 weeks before trying to tame them you will find the job progressively harder with age.
Setting the traps
Plan to set traps just before or at the cats normal feeding time. This is often at night. Dusk is usually the best time to set traps.
Don’t trap in the rain or the heat of day without adequate protection for the trap. Cats are vulnerable in the traps and could drown during storms or suffer from heatstroke in the sun. Use common sense!
Fold a piece of newspaper to line the bottom of the trap just covering the trip plate. Cats don’t like walking on the wire surface and the paper helps to keep their feet from going through when you pick up the trap. Be sure that the paper does not extend beyond the trip plate. Too much newspaper can interfere with the trap mechanism or prevent the door from closing properly.
Plan placement of traps on a level surface in the area where the cats usually feed or have been seen. Cats are less likely to enter the trap if it wobbles. If trapping in a public area, try to place traps where they will not be noticed by passersby (who may not understand that you are not trying to harm the cat). Bushes are often places where cats hide and provide good camouflage for the trap.
Use smelly food to bait the trap. We find that canned Mackerel is very effective and relatively inexpensive. It is best not to put any bowls inside the trap to hold food since the animal can easily hurt itself on it in a panic or while recovering from anesthetic.
Soak a small scrap of newspaper (2-3 inches by 3-4 inches) in the Mackerel juice and place it on the ground where you plan to place the rear of the trap.
Spoon a small amount of food onto the soaked newspaper scrap and place the trap on top of the food so the food is as far back in the trap as possible while still not accessible from outside the trap. (You want the cat to go all the way into the trap to avoid being injured when the trap door closes.) Press the trap down onto the food so that it squishes up through the wire. The idea is to make the food a little hard to get so that the cat has to go into the trap as far as possible and has to work at getting it long enough to trip the trap. (Some cats are very good at getting in and out of traps without getting caught. We don’t want to make it too easy for them to get away with that trick. Also, having the food essentially outside of the trap prevents the cat from eating it in the trap before surgery and is less messy.)
After baiting the trap, open the trap door by pushing the top of the door in and pulling the bottom of the door upward. There is a small hook attached to the right side of the trap top. It hooks onto a tiny metal cylinder on the right side of the door. The hook holds the door in an open position which also raises the trip plate. When the cat steps on the plate it will cause the hook to release the door and close the trap.
After setting the trap, cover it with a large towel or piece of towel-sized material. Fold the material at the front end of the trap to expose the opening while still covering the top, sides and back of the trap. The cover will help to camouflage the trap and serve to calm the cat after it is caught.
Just before you are ready to leave the trap for the cat to enter, you may want to push the hook (ever so slightly) a little bit back off the cylinder to create a "hair trigger". (Don’t get too carried away with this step or the trap will trip as soon as the cat takes a sniff!)
Waiting for success
Never leave traps unattended in an unprotected area, but don’t hang around within sight of the cat (or you will scare it off). The trapped animal is vulnerable. Passersby may release the cat or steal the trap! Wait quietly in an area where you can still see the traps without disturbing the cats. Check traps every 15 minutes or so. You can often hear the traps trip and see the cloth cover droop down slightly over the opening from a distance. As soon as the intended cat is trapped completely cover the trap and remove the trap from the area if other cats are not in sight. You may consider putting another trap in the same spot if it seems to be a "hot" one. Be sure to dispose of the food left on the ground when you pick up the trap. (You don’t want to litter or give out any freebies and spoil any appetites!)
When you get the captured cat to a quiet area away from the other traps lift the cover and check for signs that you have the correct animal and not a pet or previously neutered feral. (The FCC marks the right ear of every animal we alter so we can avoid repeat animals) If you note that you have captured a lactating female check the area for kittens and remember that this female must be released 10-12 hours after surgery so she can care for and nurse her kittens. Cover the cat back up as soon as possible. Uncovered, the animal may panic and hurt itself thrashing around in the trap.
Of course, there is always the chance that you will catch some other wild animal attracted to the food or an unintended cat. Simply release the animal quietly as stated in the releasing procedures here.
Holding procedures
After you have finished trapping, you will probably have to hold the cats overnight until you can take them to the vet. (Unless you have made previous arrangements with a vet)
Place cats in the prepared protected area. Don’t feed them. You can place a small bowl of water in the trap by opening the trap door just a couple of inches and placing the bowl by the trap door. Try to use a bowl that won’t be tipped over easily. An empty catfood or tuna can works fairly well. Don’t open the door too wide or the cat may escape. (Be sure to remove the bowl before transporting the cat to the vet.)
Keep cats covered and check periodically. They will probably be very quiet as long as they are covered. Don’t stick fingers in the trap or allow children or pets near the traps. These are wild animals which scratch and bite. ALL ANIMAL BITES ARE SERIOUS! IF YOU ARE BITTEN SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION AND DO NOT RELEASE THE CAT. IT MUST BE QUARANTINED. CONTACT YOUR VET FOR QUARANTINE INSTRUCTIONS.
Wash and change clothes before having contact with your own pets as a precaution against spreading any contagious diseases the cats might carry.
Always get feral kittens checked out by a vet and isolate them from your pets. Some deadly diseases can incubate without symptoms. Check with your veterinarian and use caution.
Releasing the cats
If a cat does not seem to be recovering well from the surgery, consider having it checked out by a vet before releasing. When cats are ready for release, return to the area in which they were captured and release them there. Do not relocate the animal! It will be disoriented and most likely die. In all likelihood, area cats will drive it away.
If the veterinarian has indicated a serious medical problem with the cat which you will not be able to treat, you, with the advice of the vet, must make the decision on whether it is safe to release the animal or kinder to euthanize it. Untreated abscesses and respiratory infections, and a number of other conditions, can mean suffering and a slow death.
Make sure the spot you pick for release does not encourage the cat to run into danger (like a busy street) to get away from you. Keep the trap covered until you are ready to release. When ready, simply hold the trap with the door facing away from you and open the door. The cat will probably bolt immediately out of the trap. If it is confused, just tilt the trap so the back is slightly up and tap on the back of the trap to encourage it to leave. Never put your hand in the trap! If the animal still will not leave, prop the door open with a stick and leave it for a while. A trapped skunk or possum, which is nocturnal, may decide to sleep in the trap all day and not leave the trap until dark.
After releasing the cats hose off traps and disinfect them with bleach. Never store traps in the "set" position (door open); animals may wander into even unbaited traps and starve to death.
Helpful hints
Bring a flashlight with you if trapping at night. It will come in handy for checking traps from a distance and might help you avoid a twisted ankle in the dark.
Bring a cap for the top of the Mackerel can. Nothing smells worse than fish juice spilled in the car. Don’t forget a spoon!
Females with kittens will be attracted by the sound of their kittens if the previously captured kittens are placed in a covered carrier just behind the trap. Similarly, kittens will be easier to trap if the previously captured mom is in the carrier. Females in heat can be placed in a carrier to attract male cats who have been eluding the traps. Never place the "bait" animal in the trap or anywhere where it may be harmed by the trapped animal. Even moms can hurt their babies if frightened enough. Be careful not to let the "bait" animal escape.
Some kittens can be caught without a trap but are still too wild to be handled easily. Use a thick towel to pick up the kitten to help protect you from scratching and biting. This also helps prevent the kitten from squirming away from you.
Here is a company that sells humane traps: Tomahawk Live Trap - The world's most trusted name in the industry. Hundreds of quality, value-priced products used by animal control officers and pest control operators worldwide. In stock and ready for immediate delivery to your home.
Feral Cats
Trapping a Feral Cat
Taming a Feral Cat or Kitten
Kitten Care
Advice on fostering feral cat
and kittens from an advoCATS member
Building a drop trap
Feral Cat Feeding Stations
and Shelters
Taming a Feral Cat or Kitten
Feral cats are homeless cats, many of whom were born in the wild; others are pets who were abandoned or have become lost. They are for all intents and purposes wild animals. Those adult stray cats which were once owned, or feral cats of quiet temperament, may sometimes be tamed with patience. However, the feral kitten is often easily tamed if it is captured young enough. Considering the short miserable lives that feral cats suffer, those kittens which can be tamed and adopted by humans are indeed lucky.
Feral moms usually give birth in quiet unseen spots where kittens will not be visible for several weeks. With no human contact they will be totally wild. When kittens begin to romp and play, they are first noticed by humans but are not easily captured. They may be captured in humane traps and should be taken from the mother at 4 to 6 weeks of age. Older kittens can also be captured and tamed but the process gets slower and less successful the longer the kittens stay in the wild. They should not be taken from the mother before they are old enough to be weaned at about 4 weeks. Kittens taken too young are vulnerable to disease and may not survive. The mother cat should also be captured and spayed to prevent future litters.
The process of taming kittens can take from 2 to 6 weeks (longer for some exceptionally skittish kittens) depending on their age and state of wildness. Individuals can differ greatly in temperament even within the same litter. Some may tame up immediately and some may take quite a long time. Any person attempting to tame kittens should be totally committed and patient. The taming process is certainly worthwhile. You are saving lives and producing affectionate loving companions.
The steps involved in the taming process are:
1. Containment (I) in a cage or large pet carrier
2. Periodic and brief handling with a protective towel
3. Containment (II) in a small room
4. Exposure to other humans
5. Placement in suitable adoptive homes
CONTAINMENT I
A feral kitten may hiss and ‘spit’ at humans. They are usually terrified of humans. The kitten which acts the most ferocious is just the most scared, but it is capable of giving you a nasty scratch or bite and will probably try to escape if given the chance. Remember that to the kitten you may be a predator; the kitten may think it is fighting for its life.
ALL BITES ARE SERIOUS. IF BITTEN SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION AND QUARANTINE THE KITTEN.
Feral kittens should be checked out by a veterinarian and tested for diseases contagious to other cats before you bring them home. Keep them isolated from your pet cats, wash your hands, and wear a smock (or change clothes between handling visits) to protect against the spread of disease from the kittens to pets or from pets to kitten.
If a trap was used to capture the kitten, transfer the kitten to a cage or a pet carrier large enough for a small litter box and bedding. Place it in a small room away from family pets and children. Be careful not to allow the kitten to escape during the transfer process.
For the first two days, do not attempt handling. The kittens must learn to feel safe. Visit them frequently and talk to them quietly, but resist touching. Always move slowly.
Food and water and bedding should be placed in the cage or carrier. Many cages and carriers have food and water bowls attached to the doors so that you can feed and water the kittens without having to place your hand inside. If you do not have a cage, or your carrier is too small for a litter pan, place the kittens in a small room, like a bathroom, in the carrier. Place the litter box in the room and leave the carrier door open so that the kittens have access to the box.
Some people use worn clothing as the kittens bedding to get them used to the smell of humans.
HANDLING
After 2 days, select the least aggressive kitten, place a towel over it, and pick it up in the towel. If the kitten stays calm, pet it gently on the head from behind. Never approach from the front. A hand coming at the kittens frightens them which may cause them to hiss or bite.
If the kitten remains calm, grip it securely by the nape of the neck, put the towel on your lap and set it on the towel. Stroke the kitten’s body while speaking in soft, reassuring tones, then release. Make this first physical contact brief. Go through this process with each kitten. After all have been handled, give them a special treat. Baby food or canned food off a spoon is always a great ice-breaker. Repeat this process as frequently as possible.
Brushing with a soft pet brush imitates the action of the mother grooming the kittens and will help the kitten start to transfer its need for parental love to you. It is also extremely important for the health of the kittens to remove fleas as soon as possible. Kittens become anemic from flea infestation and can easily fall prey to illnesses in this condition. Combing with a flea comb also helps the bonding process.
Never stare at the kittens for prolonged periods. This is aggressive body language to cats. Avert your eyes frequently and lower your head often to display submissive behavior. This will be less threatening to the kittens.
Play with the kittens using "kitty tease" toys (a tiny piece of cloth tied to a string which is tied to a small stick) or lightweight cat toys. Don’t leave the "kitty tease" alone with the kittens as kittens will often swallow string. This can be fatal.
CONTAINMENT II
Within a week the kittens should have made considerable progress. Each kitten will develop at a different rate. They should have access to the room and can be placed in the cage only if necessary.
If there is one that is not becoming tame, place it in a separate cage in another room, away from the others. This will allow you to work with the baby more frequently and will increase it’s dependence on a human. It will also prevent perpetuation of wildness in the littermates. All members of some litters must be isolated as not to reinforce wildness in the group.
A large room may overwhelm a timid kitten and cause increased fear. Bedrooms can be a problem. If kittens become frightened and go under the bed it can be difficult to get them to come out and stressful for them if you force them out.
Also try to kitten-proof the room as much as possible before letting the kittens out into the room. Seal up any nooks and crannies where frightened kittens may enter and become trapped or inaccessible to you. Bathroom sinks often have spaces between the kickboard and the cabinet just large enough for the kitten. Block access to behind bookcases and heavy furniture behind which the kitten can become wedged. Be careful of open toilets and anything which could be climbed and pulled down on top of the kitten causing possible injury. Protect vulnerable knick knacks, clothes, and plants (some poisonous) from curious kittens.
EXPOSURE
When the kittens no longer respond by biting and scratching, encourage friends to handle them as often as possible. It is very important that they socialize with other humans. Feral cats tend to bond with one human so they best adjust to a new home if they are socialized with other humans before being adopted out.
PLACEMENT
Kittens can be adopted out at 8 weeks or so if tamed and socialized to humans.
When screening prospective "parents" remember that the kitten will do best if there are no small children in the home. All the work you have done can be easily shattered by normal kid activity and noise. This is vital to remember when placing the kittens for adoption. The most suitable home is a calm environment so the kittens will feel secure. The ideal home is one which will keep their pet indoors and will take 2 kittens together (actually easier to care for and more fun to watch) or that will have an adult home during the day.
Be sure that you inform the adoptive family that the kitten must be neutered. This can be done as early as 8 weeks of age. You may want to ask for a refundable deposit from the adoptive family to encourage them to neuter. Or you may want to neuter it yourself and ask the new owner to reimburse you. Many forms and contracts exist for doing this. For example, FOCAS, the Humane Society, and the Department of Animal Control all have such agreements.
Feral Cats
Trapping a Feral Cat
Taming a Feral Cat or Kitten
Kitten Care
Advice on fostering feral cat
and kittens from an advoCATS member
Building a drop trap
Feral Cat Feeding Stations
and Shelters
I've had two feral mothers give birth in cages on my lanai in April. The cats had been in a colony but not yet fixed. Talk about wild! I had to use gloves just to be able to put in food and water daily. Both mothers tried to intimidate me (they did a very good job at it, too) and I don't think even if they stayed here after they were spayed that they would have friendlied up very much. They've both, in the past two weeks, been spayed and returned to their colony. I was afraid the mothers would imprint the fear of humans on their babies, as they growled and attacked my hand in front of the kittens. However, that hasn't been the case.
Once the kittens reached 3 to 4 weeks old, the moms started wanting some help with them. As the kittens tumbled to the front of the cage when I came around, I'd tentatively pick them up and if the mother didn't make a fuss, I'd remove them for a few minutes. I would have done this earlier as recent studies are showing that it's okay to handle babies from the get-go, but I wasn't that brave. All six kittens are loving and cuddly, brave and adventurous. Now that the moms are out of the picture I have to do all the feeding, but the kittens are old enough to handle solid food. I feed them 3 or 4 times a day, usually kitten kibble moistened in chicken broth or kitten replacement milk, which I buy at Wal-Mart. There's also a product called Kitten Sip that cats can digest which I find at certain grocery stores.
I was able to wait until the babies were 5 weeks old before I had the mother removed. I figured her tending to them and feeding them was not only convenient for me, but healthy for them. At 5 weeks they could use the litter box themselves and tackle food from the bowl, although the moms were encouraging them to eat the kibble I put out for her. Both moms were being fed kitten food because it's high in calories and gives good nutrition for them to produce milk. They'd get canned food once a day and some kitten replacement milk, too.
You might not have the luxury of waiting until the kittens are 4 or 5 weeks old because your mom cat might choose to move them. This has happened to a friend of mine who rescues kittens, and she's lost the opportunity to tame the babies because of that. She's found it's better to take the babies when she can, even if they're only 2 or 3 weeks old. It's a lot of work, but the kitten replacement milk can be fed to them through a little baby bottle (kitten sized), a dropper, or a syringe. By three weeks old the kittens can usually drink from a bowl. Softened kibble and canned food work, too.
If you bring the babies into your house you'll want a big box or container they can't climb out of yet. Stock it with a litter box, bedding, and maybe a toy. I don't put a lot of water in the enclosure at a time because it invariably gets spilled. Hopefully you won't have to get up at night to feed them--only with very small kittens do you have to do this, but since you're not sure of their age, that advice isn't certain. If their eyes are open they're over a week old. The ears start to stand erect after 3 weeks of age. I figure about a quarter of a pound per week, so if a kitten weighs a pound it's about 4 weeks old. That isn't a hard and fast rule, though.
I have found this website to be very helpful: http://www.kittenrescue.org/handbook.htm. It gives you information so you can estimate your kittens' age, plus loads of helpful information, right down to looking at the poop and deciding if the kittens might need to be taken to the vet.
Good luck. It's a really fun adventure, and then be sure you get mama cat spayed so she doesn't do this to you again.
Kitten Care
A kitten may need hand raising because the mother has died, become ill, rejected the kittens or abandoned them. In the case of feral cats, the kittens may have been taken from the mother for taming.
Kittens should not be taken from the mother before 5 to 6 weeks of age if possible. (For wild kittens you may want to take them away from the mother at 4 weeks to tame them. As they get older, taming gets progressively harder.) The longer the mother cat is able to feed the kittens the better ,since young kittens need mother's milk for best nutrition as well as important antibodies. This passive immunity usually lasts until the kittens are 6-14 weeks of age. Since orphans have no such protection, they are especially vulnerable to disease.
First try finding a foster feline mother; breeders, veterinarians and animal shelters may know of nursing cats in your area. Try calling any "cat people" that you know for leads as well. Cats will very often feed kittens other than their own.
If you must feed them yourself before weaning age, you must devote considerable energy and weeks of constant care if the kitten is to have a good chance at survival. The younger the kitten, the more fragile it is. Very young kittens may not survive without a mother no matter how good the care.
WARMTH AND FIRST AID
As soon as you find an orphaned kitten it must be protected from becoming chilled. Place it under your clothes next to your skin. Most of the young kitten's energy is needed for growth and yelling for more food, so there's not a lot left over for heat generation. Normally the mother cat and litter mates would provide a good deal of warmth. During their first week, kittens should be kept between 88 and 92 degrees F. For the next 2 weeks they still need temperatures of 80 degrees or so. When they reach 5 weeks or so they can tolerate a lower room temperature.
If possible, take the kitten to a veterinarian to be checked out for dehydration and general condition. Kittens can become dehydrated very quickly without a mom and may need fluids under the skin. Kittens that are dehydrated from lack of fluids or diarrhea will have very little energy or appetite, so this is important to take care of immediately. Stools should be checked for worms and parasites. The vet can supply a lot of advice on hand raising kittens as well as needed supplies so don't skip this step.
When you get the kitten home you must continue to provide warmth. Find a place in your home that is warm, draft-free and isolated.
Feeding can be done with an eyedropper or a nursing bottle (available at the vet). If using the eyedropper be careful not to force feed the kitten. Let the baby suck the fluid at its own pace, otherwise you can fill the baby's lungs with milk and cause pneumonia.
If the baby is old enough to suckle, the bottle method is best. One company even makes a special kitten nurser which is designed to keep air bubbles out of the baby's tummy. The company is Catac ($15 to Kitte Res-Q, Dept. C, P.O. Box 723, Santa Paula, Ca 93061).
All utensils should be sterilized before each feeding.
To feed your kitten, place it stomach down on a towel or other textured surface to which it can cling. Open its mouth gently with the tip of your finger, then slip the nipple between its jaws. To prevent air from entering the kitten's stomach, hold the bottle at a 45-degree angle, keeping a light pull on the bottle to encourage vigorous sucking.
If a suckling kitten aspirates formula into its lungs, immediately hold it upside down until the choking subsides. If the kitten is not strong enough to suckle, seek veterinary assistance ASAP.
Formula should be warmed to body temperature and fed to small kittens every 3-4 hours. As they get older every 6-8 hours will be enough. Check the package for recommended feeding amounts and feedings per day. A kitten needs approximately 8 cc’s of formula per ounce of body weight per day. The kitten's age determines the number of daily feedings it should receive.
When a kitten has had enough formula, bubbles will form around its mouth, and its tummy will be rounded. After each meal, burp the kitten by holding it upright against you shoulder and patting it lightly on the back.
Do not overfeed kittens, as this can bring on diarrhea as well as other problems.
FEEDING GUIDE
AGE IN WEEKS OF KITtEN/ AVG. WEIGHT/ AMOUNT OF FORMULA/ NUMBER OF FEEDINGS PER DAY
1 week old - 4 ounces / 32 cc / 6
2 weeks old - 7 ounces / 56 cc / 4
3 weeks old -10 ounces / 80 cc / 3
4 weeks old -13 ounces / 104 cc / 3
5 weeks old - 1 pound / 128 cc / 3
For kittens with a lack of appetite or anemia, "Pet-Tinic" vitamin/mineral supplement (available at the vet and pet food stores) will stimulate appetite and rebuild systems. Follow the directions on the bottle for dosage and give direct by dropper or add to food.
Kittens should be weighed frequently to ensure that they are growing properly. You'll soon know if your orphans are thriving because they will grow at an incredible rate.
STIMULATION
The kitten's natural mother takes care of both ends of her baby. By licking the kitten's abdomen, she stimulates the bowels and bladder and tidies up the resulting mess. A surrogate cat mom should gently rub the kitten's abdomen and bottom with a cotton ball or pad or tissues moistened with warm water. This stimulates the discharge of waste and keeps babies clean. Be careful to rub only enough to get them to expel waste materials. Keep the area clean and watch for chafing which might indicate that you are rubbing too hard or not cleaning well enough.
When you feed and clean the kittens, wash their fur all over with a barely damp towelette using short stokes as the mother would use. This cleans their fur, teaches them to clean their fur, and gives them a feeling of attention and well-being.
If the kittens have diarrhea and become caked with stool, it is easier on their skin to wash them in warm water.
The kitten's instinctive need to suckle (frustrated by the lack of the mother's breast) may cause the kitten to suckle its litter mate's ears, tail or genitals, causing irritations to develop. Try to satisfy this oral need by caressing each kitten's mouth with your finger or a soft cloth.
FLEAS
Abandoned kittens will need to be cleaned and rid of fleas soon after they are found. Flea anemia can hamper any attempt to save the kitten and fleas carry tape worm eggs. The vet will carry flea sprays suitable for use on kittens. Always check the manufacturer’s instructions for use on kittens. Adams flea spray (according to one foster mom) has been found to be safe and effective in quick kill of fleas while not harming even day old kittens. After using the spray (as directed on the bottle for kittens) place the kitten on a towel that can be removed with the dead and dying fleas 20 to 30 minutes later.
After the spray has rid the kitten of fleas, bathe the kitten in gentle soap or surgical soap if flea sores are present making sure to prevent chilling the kitten. DRY THE KITTEN IMMEDIATELY. 1 to 3 week old kittens can be dried carefully with a hair dryer. (Be careful to avoid blowing in their faces.) Older kittens are frequently frightened by the blowing and noise, so towel dry them as best you can and place them in a container that is in a warm place (like next to a refrigerator). You may also try putting the towel-dried kitten in a pet carrier and aiming the blow-dryer into the carrier where the warm air will gently circulate to dry the kitten.
WEANING
If necessary, you may begin weaning the kitten at 4 weeks of age. Start by feeding it formula in a bowl. Then gradually introduce solid food. Strained baby food or canned kitten food works well. Or you can moisten dry kitten food with formula or water. Don't expect the kitten to be weaned overnight. As it eats more often from the bowl, reduce the bottle feedings.
Canned kitten food can also be used to introduce the kitten to solid food. Young kittens cannot chew dry kitten food without moistening. Check instructions on the container. Try to buy high quality food for the kittens (from the vet or pet food stores). Much of what is sold in supermarkets is pure junk food and may not help your kitten thrive.
Changes in diet or certain foods can cause diarrhea, so keep an eye on stools. Diarrhea can be life-threatening to a young kitten.
LITTER BOX TRAINING
The 4 week mark is a good time to introduce the kitten to the litter box too. Place the kitten in the box after each meal. You may have to take the kitten's paw and show it how to scratch in the litter. Usually the kitten will catch on quickly.
LOVE AND ATTENTION
Besides food and warmth the kitten needs emotional closeness. Pet it frequently and let it snuggle against your warm skin.
Some experts believe that hand-raised kittens show higher intelligence, greater loyalty and deeper affection for their owners. Cat trainers also recommend lots of handling for kittens and swear that this makes them easier to train.
Some experts argue that no adequate parental substitute for the natural mother cat exists.
MILESTONES
At birth, a kitten should weigh 2 to 4 ounces. By the end of its first week it should double in body weight. The kitten should open its eyes at about 8 days. The eyes will stay blue for about 2 more weeks. (The true eye color will not appear until the kitten is about 3 months old.)
At 2 weeks the ears will start to stand up. At about 3 weeks the kitten will try to walk. At 4 weeks kittens start to play with each other and develop teeth.
Check with your veterinarian as to the timing of the needed vaccinations.
The kitten should be ready for adoption at 8 weeks, and can be spayed or neutered at that time if in good health.
HEALTH PROBLEMS
Orphaned kittens are especially vulnerable to diseases. At the first sign of any abnormal behavior or loss of appetite, take them to the veterinarian.
Colds, like upper respiratory infections, are caused by various viruses and claim many kittens each year. Some of these same viruses, or an organism known as Chlamydia, can also cause permanent damage to a kitten's eyes. If bacteria invade the infected eye the organisms can puncture the tough covering, resulting in blindness. Even a lesser infection can leave the eyeball badly scarred.
Diarrhea can result from disease, food changes, worms, or overfeeding. The resulting dehydration can be deadly.
Distemper is also a chronic danger to young cats, especially those who did not have the advantage of the mother cat's antibodies. It is airborne, very contagious, and often a killer.
A FINAL WORD
Caring for an orphaned kitten can be difficult and even the most conscientious foster parent may lose a little one. If a kitten dies, the substitute parent should not blame himself or herself. Nor should you accept all the credit if the kitten thrives.
A kitten is most likely to die at birth, in its first week, or while weaning. But, armed with common sense and an ability to care (as well as accurate information), you have a good chance of raising a motherless waif to the adoption age - or beyond.
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Building a drop trap How it works: A wooden frame covered by netting or mesh is propped up on one side, and food is placed in the center-back. The trapper stands at a distance, and when ready, pulls on the string attached to the prop-stick, which allows the trap to drop, capturing the cats inside. Each cat is then securely transferred to a box trap, through matching guillotine-style doors, for transport to the vet. The drop trap shown here was designed by Laura Burns of Boston and requires basic woodworking skills and tools to make. Tips and techniques for using a drop trap are available by request from Laura at: HubCatsBoston@aol.com. For instructions on making this drop trap go to the Neighborhood Cats web site: www.neighborhoodcats.org |
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Feral Cat Feeding Stations and Shelters |
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Feral Cats
Trapping a Feral Cat
Taming a Feral Cat or Kitten
Kitten Care
Advice on fostering feral cat
and kittens from an advoCATS member
Building a drop trap
Feral Cat Feeding Stations
and Shelters
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